Ryder

What started started your fascination with vintage militaria?

When I was little, I was into playing war and always wanted to play with guns. And, I had a weird fascination with military style. The soldiers always looked so fresh. As I got older, I started to appreciate the style, fit, and durability. It is truly the best quality stuff.

Tell me about the flight suit……

My mom used to wear a flight suit back in the day and found a new one on Ebay. Fortunately for me, it was too big for her so she passed it on. It’s from 1946. Normally, flight suits are very tubular in shape because they would usually wear like 5 layers underneath. I wanted a more narrow leg so I could tuck them into my boots, so I added snaps to cinch the bottom. I found a snap kit at Michael’s and after a few tries, eventually got the hang of it and put them every 3 or 4 inches all the way up to the mid thigh.

Can you give me an idea on how to wear fatigues and flightsuits?
How does someone work it into their everyday?

I try to dress somewhat casual and formal at the same time so that I can wear what I am wearing to a casual event or if I need to dress up I don’t need to change. I fit the part already. My guide is keep it to one piece of militaria per outfit. I usually wear all black with a vintage jacket. Never full on Rambo. The most full on I will go is to wear my vintage palladiums (black boots with ankle pouches) with a vintage jacket and an army bag.

This Muse piece was a reclaimed army jacket–the company bought a bunch of vintage jackets and then embroidered their logo on it. I bought it as soon as I saw it. Muse is a company that my friend started and I worked with for a little bit.

How does it make you feel when you wear it?

Unique, I guess. My family is always dressing weird. It is cool to us but can be considered “different” to others. I was bullied for what I wore in high school and how I wore my hair. I would wear harem pants and even the hall monitors would make fun of me, but, I owned it. Years later, the guys who would make fun of me were wearing harem pants with the same haircut! I’m not sure if I’m a trendsetter or if people just don’t like me…but, maybe, they thought I was kinda cool.

Mom always taught me that if people make fun of you, you’re are doing something unique. If you feel like you’re being held back by social norms, start with one thing; the cool jacket, the cool boots, and see how you feel. If you’re like me, you’ll wear the most outrageous thing ever and just not give a sh*t because, at this point in life, it is just absurd to care what other people think. If you find clothes that you feel passionate about and make you feel cool, that’s all that matters. I’ve dealt with that my entire life. People love to give me their opinion on my outfits or my hair, and my response is thank you very much for your input, but I will continue to wear whatever the f*@k I want. Most of the time when people are making fun of you it’s because they’re not cool enough to “own it”.

Do you have any tips for how to make sure the vintage I’m buying will fit?

I compare the dimensions in the description to another piece I own. I measure everything before I order. I also pull out a measuring tape and double check my size before I hit “order”.

Tell me about this long jacket. What’s it called?

It’s nighttime desert camo and was created for the troops in Afghanistan. It is technically vintage because its from the early 90’s. I think you’re supposed to wear it under a ghilly suit, which is camo fabric covered in leaves and things. I got it from a guy that specializes in military supplies at a huge flea market in Brimfield, Massachusetts. He used to be in the Marines and knows where to get the good stuff. He had this completely thermal head to toe sleeping bag that was pressurized and had a face mask which was something I had never seen before. I bought a vintage military boat first aid kit and a pressurized missile container which is just fun. Nothing he sells is ever really cheap, but it’s worth it because it’s coming directly from the source.

The parka I got (a pullover w/ chest pocket) was a really long search. It’s from Russia and was used as a double outer layer to keep the wind out. It has two pockets on the back that were used for ammo and survival necessities. I found that on Ebay. It is definitely my favorite piece..

What keywords do you use when you’re searching for something new?

Vintage, military, militaria, Americana are the words I usually type into sites like Etsy and Ebay when I am on the hunt for some new pieces. It’s harder to find reasonably priced vintage military gear because most people buy it up and wear it as street clothes. I love jodhpurs (the pants above) so I search that a lot. I got the ones I’m wearing from Germany– I think they were from the late 70’s or early 80’s. I always go for duffle bombers. A lot of times, I just go online and search vintage military because, more often than not, people don’t know what to call it because the category is so broad. People who use specific terms are usually collectors and will up the price. It’s better to have to search through a lot because you usually find people who are selling their pieces for a fair price. Many times people on Etsy will market something as vintage when it’s really not, it’s just styled after vintage pieces. I’ve found a button on Etsy that allows you to search solely vintage, but people still market new pieces as vintage. Usually when a piece includes any mention of wear and tear it is more likely to be authentic, so that’s always worth looking for. I also look up “vintage military” and have found a lot of cool stuff. Look for “new old stock” which means it was meant to be put out but it never was. The pieces have never been worn and are usually super old.

What other vintage finds catch your eye?

Tools, first aid kits, ash trays, I mean yeah I love everything vintage. When it comes to clothes, I stick to vintage military or vintage farmer. I went through a cowboy phase for a minute at the end of last winter. I would wear my green corduroy farmer jacket, a bandana and a cowboy hat all the f*@king time.